Need Help In Wiring Up An Alarm!

[chicken_arse_legs]

Hi everyone,

 

I brought an alarm from abroad and I need some help in wiring it up, can anyone help me please.

I understand the instructions but not sure about the wires within the car, which colour wire is for which device or instrument etc or even what point do I find to make a clean connection (relay or some other point?).

 

I have scanned the installation instruction, please do have a look and post me on procedure please :-

 

Galaxy P reg 97, 1.9 TDI, AHU Engine.

 

 

Thank you!

Edited August 5, 2008 by chicken_arse_legs

[seatkid]

Instructions.

 

1. Pick up Yellow Pages

 

2. Look under auto electrician

 

3. Pick any number and dial.......

 

 

 

:D I thought all Galaxys had an immobiliser/deadlocks/basic alarm as standard......

[chicken_arse_legs]

I knew someone was going to say that!

 

Any particular reason why I shouldn't do it myself?

 

Anyone else with some advise other than the one above? but thanks for the reply seatkid.

 

and No mine dont seem to have an alarm but think it does have a immobiliser that works with the key and ignition.

Edited August 5, 2008 by chicken_arse_legs

[Mirez]

I would go with seatkid, No1 rule of alarms - there is little point in fitting if its not done extreamly well.

 

The main reason not to fit yourself is that without the correct knowledge you could very easily damage the wiring loom within your car and reder it useless. The wiring colours can differ from model to model, year to year so its not as easy as just saying connect that one to the yellow one. There will also be a multitude of the same colour wires in the area and you'll need to volt meter probing to test which one is correct - something that can also be dangerous with an airbag system. You need a volt meter and a wiring diagram for your cars year to start.

 

Don't get me wrong, I am all in favour of anyone who wants to do something themselves and had the question been that you were stuck on one connection and needed help then fair enough, but your asking for all which is just too impractical to give.

 

A clean connection is any that makes a GOOD connection, ie spliced and soldered not scotchlocked!

[Smilge]

I tend to agree with the above Chicken .... and like you would want to have a go as electronics are my bread and butter. I'm not happy with the circuit diagram and doesn't explain how you connect to the existing wiring particularly those connections which end in an arrow. The window and door triggers plus the central locking "lock" and "unlock" signals are a little confusing. What do the other wires on plug 12P do? I also reckon if you connect the Ignition cut off as shown it'll interfere with the existing immobiliser circuit and even damage it. I'd be very wary of introducing parallel earths particularly on the brake switch which is a safety circuit on the Galaxy.

[chicken_arse_legs]

Hi,

 

Bleeno, the other wires on the lower part of p12 are for central locking which was brought with the alarm, There are 4 locks that pull and push the existing Manuel lock that would be in a car. these other wires would connect to that. I didnt need it as mine has central locking.

 

Once you have the central locking in front of you with the alarm it makes sense it just everything on the car and where it goes that i have a problem with.

 

 

 

Anyone have a clue on how much I would be charged for installation, in London?

 

P.S thanks for the help everyone, think I need to take your advise.

[f0ster]

Hi everyone,

 

I brought an alarm from abroad and I need some help in wiring it up, can anyone help me please.

I understand the instructions but not sure about the wires within the car, which colour wire is for which device or instrument etc or even what point do I find to make a clean connection (relay or some other point?).

 

I have scanned the installation instruction, please do have a look and post me on procedure please :-

 

Galaxy P reg 97, 1.9 TDI, AHU Engine.

 

 

Thank you!

 

hello

first of all your car should already have an alarm fitted with movement sensors in the B pillars, and dead locking, as to the alarm circuit,

there appears to be an ignition live on the circuit diagram missing, usually there is battery live, which it has, and an ignition live to prevent the alarm from being activated when the ignition is on, anyway what do you want to know, it should work without the ignition live,

[chicken_arse_legs]

 

hello

first of all your car should already have an alarm fitted with movement sensors in the B pillars, and dead locking, as to the alarm circuit,

there appears to be an ignition live on the circuit diagram missing, usually there is battery live, which it has, and an ignition live to prevent the alarm from being activated when the ignition is on, anyway what do you want to know, it should work without the ignition live,

 

 

"there appears to be an ignition live on the circuit diagram missing.......and an ignition live to prevent the alarm from being activated when the ignition is on"

The alarm functions even when the car is started and running as it control the central locking with the fob and if the car is been stolen and driven away you can have the engine cut with pushing the button on the fob!and other wacky functions.

 

So how do I find out if i have an alarm? and B pillar which pillar would that be, the one next to the little window at the front or the one in between the front and rear door and is it the driver side or passenger side?

 

If i do have an alarm can i get the key pad and where?

Edited August 6, 2008 by chicken_arse_legs

[Mirez]

B pillar is the one between front seats and middle seats, there will be two ultrasonic sensors behind grills if you have them. You dont need a keypad as its automatically activated with the central locking.

[chicken_arse_legs]

Well i went to someone to ask for my alarm to get fitted and he asked me to put my window down and lock the car door, then i put my hand through to start the car and it started. :)

 

the only thing was the red light on the door changed blinking pattern when i put the key into the ignition and turn to start it but thats all no alarm noise or no immobiliser!

 

anyway I can check that I have an alarm beside how i did it above?

[seatkid]

:) A thief is hardly likely to have your key!

 

Sorry but you have no appreciation of how a modern immobiliser works......

 

When you put the key in the ignition and start it, the immobiliser interrogates the key pats and if the handshake was successful, then the ecu powers up and cancels down the alarmed/immobilised state.

 

 

The B pillar ultrasonic sensors are not standard but I think there is a basic alarm. Try to lock the car with the drivers door open but holding the door switch closed. Then release the door switch 10 seconds later to simulate the door being forced open. Does the alarm (horn) go off? Also its probably possible to retrofit the bonnet lift switch (optional) to protect the engine bay.

 

 

I think the circuit above looks as if its designed for a 1980's car. I wouldnt be surprised if the ECU and central locking would object to this device being attached and as for an "ignition cut off", thats just asking for trouble. I had a 1976 passat fitted up with a shock sensor alarm in 1978, used to wake me up 2-3 times every night!

Edited August 6, 2008 by seatkid

[sepulchrave]

I'm with everyone else on this one.

 

This alarm system looks totally inappropriate for this type of vehicle.

 

Your car has a factory fitted alarm/immobiliser which may or may not currently be working, but could easily be fixed if it ain't.

[chicken_arse_legs]

Yea i know i dont have a clue this is why I'm here!

 

Il try and see if I can make my car scream!

[chicken_arse_legs]

ok tried it, i locked it from inside and left for 10sec and opened via inside handle it just opened itself up.

 

I lock it from outside while i was inside by opening the window and then 10sec tried to open with inside handle and it refused to open but didnt make any alarm noise.

 

Then while the car was lock from outside i banged on everywhere at the front of car including the pillars and nothing!

 

so what now guys?

 

O noticed when i locked it from outside then put my key in the ignition and turned it to start the doors released so i could open the door from inside!

Edited August 7, 2008 by chicken_arse_legs

[Mirez]

Lock it from outside so you cant open the doors from inside and then pop the bonnet.

[seatkid]

Seesh! :lol:

 

Mirez, As I said earlier the bonnet switch is an option not likely fitted on Chickens car.

 

:) Chicken.....follow the procedure I suggested! :)

 

Think about it. :)

 

1. If you have the correct key then you are not the thief.

 

2. If you are in the car and lock yourself in, you are not a thief.

 

3. If you lock it from the outside the deadlocks are engaged and it cant be opened via an open window - If you "double lock" the car (turn key to lock position again a few seconds after first locking), then you can disable the dealocks. (the indicators flash to acknowledge this) You might want to do this if you want to leave your kids in the car for example. You can also put your key into the ignition and turn it on to release the deadlocks.

 

4. Generally speaking thieves BREAK INTO your car. Hence the procedure I outlined to demonstrate the alarm.

 

5. You do not have the ultrasonic sensors....

which if you had detect movement inside the car and are not set off by banging on the car.

 

:)

I give up......

Edited August 7, 2008 by seatkid

[Mirez]

I know thats what you said but I tend to disagree with you! :unsure:

 

IF it has an alarm fitted then IMO it WILL have a bonnet switch. I've never known any manufacturer NOT fit one if they have fitted a basic perimiter alarm - there is just no logic. Why fit door switches, a "brain" and a horn just to allow a theif to open the bonnet and disconnect the battery to bypass the whole lot.... it makes NO sence.

 

Therefore IF he has got the factory alarm, which is all he wants to know, then (again IMO) he would have a bonnet switch.

 

 

A direct quote from TIS:

 

The alarm system can be armed only if:

 

l The ignition is off.

 

l All the doors are closed.

 

l The engine hood is closed.

 

l The tailgate is closed.

 

l The central locking motors are locked.

 

How would it know if the bonnet (hood lol) was closed if it didn't have a switch fitted?

 

Maybe alhambras are different but I am 99% certain his galaxy will have one if he has the alarm fitted.

Edited August 8, 2008 by Mirez

[Smilge]

Incoming!!!!!!

[seatkid]

I had a 96 model Alhambra - it was not fitted - a simple termination plug was fitted.

I may be wrong but, IIRC, the bonnet switch was only fitted on top of the range Ford/VW models at that time, along with the engine light and the internal ultrasonic sensors.

 

Theres no point in recommending a procedure that relies on an Option being fitted.

Edited August 8, 2008 by seatkid

[gregers]

well on mine i have the bonnet switch but no under bonnet light,where talking of a whole mismatch of electrical items on these cars,that even the so called experts have no idea on,iirc under the passenger seat is the ecu/control box,if it has 3 terminal blocks attached to it you have an alarm if only 2 then you dont(i was told this when i had my mk1 2ltr petrol).

[f0ster]

ok tried it, i locked it from inside and left for 10sec and opened via inside handle it just opened itself up.

 

I lock it from outside while i was inside by opening the window and then 10sec tried to open with inside handle and it refused to open but didnt make any alarm noise.

 

Then while the car was lock from outside i banged on everywhere at the front of car including the pillars and nothing!

 

so what now guys?

 

O noticed when i locked it from outside then put my key in the ignition and turned it to start the doors released so i could open the door from inside!

 

I have a 1995 galaxy diesel, it has alarm system fitted, movement sensors, dead locking, if you turn the key to lock twice it dissables the sensors,

[seatkid]

well on mine i have the bonnet switch but no under bonnet light,where talking of a whole mismatch of electrical items on these cars,that even the so called experts have no idea on,iirc under the passenger seat is the ecu/control box,if it has 3 terminal blocks attached to it you have an alarm if only 2 then you dont(i was told this when i had my mk1 2ltr petrol).

 

No MkII has under bonnet light but the bonnet switch is standard in these and the 2 poles are connected in parallel.

 

Irregardless of whether you think my statements are true or not :unsure:...........oh f*** it...http://www.briskoda.net/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif... chicken, wire up your chinese "brain" and enjoy ......

 

I need a beer and to seriously consider whether I should go to bed earlier (yes gregers!), I spend far too long on this site...http://briskoda.net/images/smilies/nopity.gif

 

Why? I must be crazy.......http://www.briskoda.net/forums/images/smilies/pillepalle.gif

[mk2vr6]

Theres no point in recommending a procedure that relies on an Option being fitted.

 

yep especially when the alarm was only available as standard on the Ultima model in 97 and before and after that it was an option across the range not standard fit unless you had the VR6 :unsure:

[seatkid]

Theres no point in recommending a procedure that relies on an Option being fitted.

 

yep especially when the alarm was only available as standard on the Ultima model in 97 and before and after that it was an option across the range not standard fit unless you had the VR6 :unsure:

 

Not true.

Edited August 8, 2008 by seatkid

[Mirez]

Theres no point in recommending a procedure that relies on an Option being fitted.

 

I 100% agree, however since I believe the bonnet switch is fitted as standard equipment with an alarm and not an option - that's why I recommended it.

 

As I said earlier I can see zero logic in NOT installing a simple switch to protect the power supply of ANY alarm, hence why I believe it wasn't an option. Even the KA has a perimiter alarm with bonnet switch and every ford I have owned with factory alarm has had one - but again maybe its a seat/vw thing to have it as an option?

 

When you say yours didn't have the switch, did you have a factory alarm fitted, actually hear it working and own the car from new? I'm not trying to hack anyone off, I just believe I am right but I'll happily admit I am wrong when proven so. :unsure: